Amman is the first Middle Eastern capital I visited, and always enjoy going back. It’s not an obvious destination – in fact, it’s not really a ‘destination’ all, and is usually only visited as a springboard for trips to some of Jordan’s other, better-known glories such as Petra (of course) or the Dead Sea. But I find it a congenial, easy city to be in, with a thriving arts scene, good bookshops (with lots of English language books) and nice coffee bars. And it has one amazing ruin, the citadel, towering over the city centre. My cultural guide to Amman, published in the Sunday Telegraph after a long delay due to the Arab Spring, is here.